06/01/04 Catch a wave...

Los Angeles and Santa Monica, California    (1494 Miles Total)     Marine Layer/Sunny - 78F

 Santa Monica, California

This morning I took a surfing lesson, no joke, while Amy documented the event from the shore and kept the local homeless beachcombers at bay. The waves were rolling in softly and slowly at Santa Monica Beach tower 20, perfect for somebody to learn to surf. I've come to the conclusion that the taller you are, the harder it is to surf. During my hour-and-a-half lesson I had 20-something rides, most of which ended quickly with my tumbling into the ocean. However, on three attempts I was actually able to get stable on the board and ride it into the shallows; a great feeling. It was a lot of fun and ton of work but well worth it. Amy used my real SLR with the super-telephoto lens to take pictures, so they are not the best scans but I would have been even more of a spec in the pictures if she had used the digital camera.  Also note that for the hour or so I was on the water, a nice thick layer of clouds rolled in off the ocean, making everything look dark and colder than it really was. 

Perfecting the pop-up on shore

A wobbly initial run where the wave flattened out behind me

The first run where I got up and stable...

...and rode the wave into shore!

Riding the wild surf on a nice set...

...and right before I wiped out on the next one.

The sun burned off the clouds right after I finished surfing.  The pictures would have looked so much prettier if it wasn't for the clouds.

Santa Monica Beach complete with baywatch-esque lifeguard tower

After surfing we met one of Amy's friends for lunch on Venice Beach, watched a busker brawl, and spent the afternoon walking the beach, before grabbing a nap at the hotel and heading out to dinner at a Mexican restaurant with Amy's friends.

Venice Beach

      

posted June 1, 2004 by Tyler